Warhammer 40,000 Discussion

Hey all, since we’ve been discussing WH40k in my other post, I figured I’d make a new one dedicated to the topic. Mainly because I’d love to hear any painting and assembling tips for my battleforce, since as you know, the little guys come in pieces and can be tricky to get put together, I’d imagine. But first, an update. As mentioned in the comments of my other post, I have gone through my old 40k minis from high school to see if they are the same scale as the new ones, and they are! I also seem to have more of them than I remembered.

So, as a quick run-down of what I currently have for my Eldar army, broken up by unit type:

HQ
-Pheonix Lord Maugan Ra
-Phoenix Lord Fuegan
-Phoenix Lord Baharroth

Elites
-Striking Scorpions (3 + 1 exarch, missing 1 for playable squad)
-Wave Serpent (attachable as transport to a troop squad)

Troops
-Dire Avengers (4 + 1 exarch, playable squad)
-Guardians (8, playable squad)
-Rangers (8, playable squad)
-Jetbikes (2 Guardian, 1 harlequin, missing 1 for playable squad)

Fast Attack
-Warp Spiders (3 + 1 exarch, missing 1 for playable squad)

Heavy Support
-War Walker (1, playable on it’s own)
-Dark reapers (3 + 1 exarch? not sure, if it is, missing 1 for playable squad)
-Heavy Weapon Platform and 2 crew (playable as-is)

So, that’s my current list of units, I’m even better off than I expected I’d be. I want to pick up some more Warp Spiders to complete my squad and get some Warlocks or a Farseer as alternate HQ units since I’ve read that they’re great at bolstering an existing force.

So Now, what tips do you have for me in terms of assembling my battleforce minis and priming/painting. Which would be the best bet for a primer? I’ve heard they come in different colours for primer and my force’s primary colour will be Chaos Black with the secondary as Blood Red and highlights/accents based on the unit role/type. Fire away boys!

44 thoughts on “Warhammer 40,000 Discussion”

  1. While it’s not exactly the same scheme, you’ll want to probably follow this tutorial if you’re painting up a primarily-black army:

    http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/content/article.jsp?community=&catId=cat380004&categoryId=400035&pIndex=8&aId=1100009&start=9

    As for what base coat to start with, I highly recommend Chaos Black Spray, from GW. It’s expensive, but it’ll last and it coats really well. You’d only really use White spray if you’re going to do really bright army colours (like red, yellow, etc).

  2. Cool, thanks Curt, I was browsing the GW website this morning a bit and actually stumbled on the same tutorial. Any advice on a sealer for once the minis are done being painted?

  3. No advice for that cause I haven’t done it myself, yet. If you get a good carry case, you may not really need to use sealer.

    As for which carrying case I use, I use the Army Transport from these guys http://www.saboldesigns.net/ (who’s site appears to be down right now). It was about $100, but it holds my entire 2000 points of marines comfortably.

  4. Yeah, I was wondering about storage, wanted something that would keep them safe but not be too pricy. Was considering making my own buy picking up some foam sheets and cutting slots as needed, then stacking.

  5. You can get a can of chaos black spray at le valet for $10, when I plan to finally protect my paint jobs I’ll probably try the ‘ard coat spray. but that also depends on whether you want a glossy finish or a matte finish.

    When trimming your figures and removing them from the sprue it pays to take the extra few minutes to be a bit of a perfectionist a trim the excess plastic off well. Nothing ruins a paint job more then unseemly seems 😉

    Other then that, you tube is ok for tips. Or make sure you download or buy the painting guides, you won’t paint that well to start, but the tips in those books are great. Washes and inks also can help bolster paint jobs you are not happy with. Very easy to do also.

  6. Yeah, I’ve been doing tons of research online about it, and I’m actually finding oodles of useful tips, I’ve found a few people that are swearing by a very inexpensive method and judging by their photos, it gets great results. The formula is as follows:

    Basecoat with, believe it or not, Rust-Oleum Black Automobile Primer, it apparently coats well, is inexpensive and easily obtainable, and is light and won’t obscure details in the minis. Then paint as needed, and seal afterwards with a spray of gloss coat sealant that you can buy from any store that sells spray paint, then finish up with a coat of matte sealer if you don’t want your minis to be shiny. The matte sealer can again be bought in the Rust-Oleum brand, but the couple source I found weren’t clear on which brand of gloss sealant works best. I would guess Rust-Oleum as well. Of course, Games Workshop also provides options for each of these but they are more expensive.

    Now one thing I haven’t found too much info on yest is exactly what are washes and inks, are they separate products I would need to buy? or are they just a way of mixing paints? I’d love some more info on those. I have an old ‘Eavy Metal painting guide somewhere that I want to dig out and look through for some painting tips, too.

    Thanks for the tips so far guys, they’re great.

  7. Inks/washes are pretty much just really watered down paints. You brush it on, won’t really cover the basecoat much, will add a slight tint. The thing is they pool in recessed areas, so those spots will have a nice shade to it, best part is you generally get a nice natural transition between your basecoat and shadowed area doing this.

  8. Ah, ok, so essentially I would just mix some of whichever colour I wanted with some water to thin it out? Is there any ratio that works particularly well?

  9. They recommend 10:1 for GW paints, but personally I’ve not had much luck creating my own washes, so I just bought a few. Typically you’ll only really need a black or brown wash (depending on your goals here). But Neil’s right, they create a very natural look. I haven’t used them at all on my marines (too far in to start changing methods or my army will look mismatched), but I’m planning on using them a lot on my Orks, for aged and beaten leathers/metals.

    A very good way to save money, I’ve found, is to get a bunch of cheap sealing paint pots that you can mix colours you need in. That way, you don’t need to buy every GW paint colour under the sun, you can just mix approximations to your heart’s desire, and save them for later.

    Also, your paint should last quite awhile: a little goes a long way.

    Oh, and if you ever need to strip paint of models, I hear brake fluid is actually a great way to do it without damaging the models themselves.

  10. Yeah, I heard that, too. Which is something I need to try as I’ve got some old poorly-painted figures I will want to use, my rangers, for example.

  11. Wow, I’ve been checking a few hardware stores online, not having much luck finding the rustoleum primer or sealers, may have to try another brand. And I checked the Le Valet site, the price for the chaos black primer can has gone up to ~$16, which is only $2 less than the GW store in the Eaton Centre. 🙁

  12. Yeah, that is a good point, and they are full-sized spray cans. What’s frightening is I checked a hobby shop in the basement of the Eaton Centre (Tour du Jeux) yesterday and they were selling what looked like quarter-sized cans of primer and sealant for about $10. I want to get out to Fairview some time soon again as the Tour Du Jeux there is selling their WH40k figures at 50% off, and they almost only have Eldar. But I think they only really have war walkers, tanks, jetbikes and avengers. So I wouldn’t be able to flesh out my warp spiders or get my warlocks.

  13. You know what guys, I’m curious, what you all have for army lists? You can list points if you want, but a rough point count and maybe list of units would be cool, I’m curious what I’d be up against.

  14. I have:

    2 captains (I can choose from either one, but don’t field both).
    5-man Command Squad
    37 Tactial Marines (arranged in squads of 5-10)
    5-man Scout Squad
    6-man Devastator Squad
    5-man Assault Squad
    5-man Terminator Squad
    2 Dreadnoughts
    1 Razorback/Rhino
    1 Predator

    Total points are: 2246

    As for my Orks, I don’t really know yet. I know I’ve got a commander, lots of boys, some nobs, 5-man loota/burna squad (I haven’t decided yet), 3 deffkoptas, 3 bikers, and 2 trukks. I think I’ve got about 1500 points of them, but I haven’t built them, so I can’t quite count them up with their load-outs yet.

    Basically, my marines are balanced (leaning to troop-based), while my Orks are mechanized.

  15. sorry John that’s classified info 😉

    I’ll maybe post a list later.

    Tour de jeux at fairview does not have much left. Thing of was a jet bike, a squad of avengers, and a wraithlord. Rest is dark eldar.

  16. ok, so in my opinion I don’t have any fieldable armies yet. But this is what I haw so far.
    Imperial Guard:
    1 command squad
    2 infantry platoons
    1 tech priest w/ 4 servitors
    1 leman russ battle tank
    3 heavy weapon squads

    Have not added too much since the IG update is out this weekend. so soon I will all the good stuff.

    Necrons:
    1 warrior squad
    1 scarab swarm
    1 destroyer
    1 c’tan nightbringer

    Waiting to pick up the 1500 point army box next.

  17. Cool, thanks guys. So in the past when you guys have played, what kind of point limit have you played with? 500? 1000?

    From what I’ve been reading online, the Eldar battleforce on it’s own comes in just around 450 if you really kit out your unitsa with wargear and such. So toss on top of that a couple hundred more for the rangers and HQ units I’ve got and we’re looking at something nearing ~700 as a very loose ballpark.

  18. I haven’t really played with anything above ~300pts so far, but the majority of games that are played at the shop near me are about 1500pts. The best way to handle what units you should have are to play with the ones you do have, and then see what you feel you might be lacking (more armour, more fast attack, etc).

    Either that, or you can just buy the shiny stuff and field that. That’s my kind of method. 😉

  19. Maybe late May or early June I can try and have my marines done (this is a VERY positive estimate, of course) and bring them down to Montreal and we can battle it out over a few games, painted or unpainted.

  20. Cool, that’d be neat. As it stands, I have a playable army, I want to devote some time this week/weekend to assembling and priming/painting my battleforce and other figures, one quick question.

    For priming, I’m guessing it would be best to prime after assembling the figures? I’ve heard if you prime or paint first, then assemble, it makes for less mistakes and an easier time of things, but at the same time it makes for a less sturdy model as you’re bonding a layer of paint to a layer of paint instead of plastic to plastic.

  21. I haven’t really tried that way, but I do know that some painters feel that you’re wasting your time if you paint it up before assembling, as you’ll be painting things that can’t even be seen on the model. Furthermore, it’s easier to do highlighting and such on a fully-assembled model, as you know where the light should be coming from relative to all the pieces. Ultimately, however, it’s really just up to preference and how you’re comfortable painting them up.

    Personally, I assemble them completely, filing off all the flash as I go (very important!), then prime the entire thing. I usually do each priming in batches of 5-10 units, and I do a few passes per unit (ie: paint one side, let it dry, flip them over, and paint the other side). Primer dries pretty quickly, but after coating the models completely, try and let them dry overnight if you can before painting.

    Oh, and I was looking over your army list, and unless the GW site is lying, your Jetbike squad is valid already, as it has 3 models (one of which is a sergeant-type).

  22. Yeah, technically it is, as a jet bike squad only needs 3, but the thing that makes it not playable is the models themselves, two of them have shuriken cannons, according to the codex, one jetbike out of every 3 can have a shuriken cannon, the standard layout is two shuriken catapults. Now if one of them being a sergeant-type unit, or harlequin overrides that requirement, then the squad is playable, which I’d like.

  23. Oh I see. Yeah, from the sound of it, it is invalid, then. I’ve got the same thing with my Assault squad. Only one for every five can have a plasma pistol, but I didn’t notice this when I put them together, so two of them have plasma pistols. I either need to get more assault marines, or cut off his hand, glue on a new one, and match the paint. Both aren’t really great options for the time being, so I’m just going to hand-wave it and have one of them considered to have a bolt pistol. Maybe I’ll mark the model in some way as being the one with the real pistol, or something.

  24. That could work. Thinking about it, though, there’s tons of extra pieces in my eldar box, one of which is a dual shuriken catapult module for the bottom of the wave serpent that might just fit the bottom of my jetbike, if so, I might be able to rig it so that my jetbikes are play-legal. I need ot take a look when I get home.

  25. Of course it depends on what build I want for my wave serpent (i’ve decided to leave it as wave serpent instead of converting to a flacon, after some research). And I’ve determined, I need either a seer council box or a farseer and warlock bodyguard box. After the primer for painting, they are my next 40k purchase. Probably my only for a while, too, as they will really be the only extra units i’d need.

  26. Not a problem, I intend to pick up my warlocks/farseer(s) in the next week. And if I happen to see a decent price for a warp spider or a handful of them, then I may grab them, too.

  27. Groovy. Are you going to blog about your progress as you assemble your miniatures, like we have? Take some macro pictures as they go, kind of thing? I’d love to see them as they come together.

  28. Sure thing, I think that would be fun. I’m also doing some preliminary layout work, picking weapon configurations and skills/powers/wargear for my units. I’m even making it all into an excel spreadsheet so I can keep track of it easily! 🙂

  29. That’s a great idea! I’m glad to hear you’re getting such good mileage out of your warhammer gift! 🙂

    Then again, you were like the first out of all of us who had an interest in 40k, so I suppose I shouldn’t be too surprised. 😉

  30. Hehe, that’s true, eh? It all started because I saw the Eldar stuff at Fantasia and thought they looked really cool. Still do, too. I think out of all the armies, for my tastes, the Eldar still have the coolest looking models.

  31. Oh, and I’ve completed my spreadsheet, which contains all the units I have now (fieldable or not), with wargear and skills/powers, and it calculates the post total of my army based on whether and unit is fieldable or not, based on how many of each unit I have, and whether or not I’ve selected it as an ‘in use’ unit.

    Current fieldable total, skills and wargear in: 1229
    Currently selected battleforce, skills and wargear in: 829

    Gonna see about making another version of the spreadsheet that covers the entire range of available Eldar units and lets me just enter what I have and choose wargear and skills and it adjusts costs as needed.

  32. That sounds incredible cool, John. My spreadsheet is a lot more rudimentary than that. I wonder if anyone’s already made any spreadsheets like that for each army or something? Time to do some Googling.

  33. Looks like they have, found one, but it didn’t handle all the points, I added psych powers to my Dire Avenger Exarch and it didn’t add the point cost.

  34. I thought so, can’t figure out how to edit the calculations it does in the Eldar sheet, I want to fix the Dire Avenger exarch calculations, as it doesn’t add the points for their powers and skills.

  35. Yeah, the IG one does not count vox-casters and a few other things. But then as of tomorrow it will need to be redone anyways.

    The Necron one still requires you to do all the math on your own. Not bad for necrons though, as only the Necron lord can really be upgraded.

  36. I hope to have a fully functional (1500pt) army by mid June. Maybe not fully painted, but atleast assembled and primed.

    May finish off the Necron army first, as until i get the IG codex (hopefully tomorrow before class) I will need to figure out what i want. Although if Le Valet happens to have the new IG battleforce and codex tomorrow i may grab them up regardless. That alone will give me a decently filled out IG army to use.

    And yes i know i can field my measly IG army now, it is legal, but they would get sqaushed easily. Simply due to sheer opposing firepower. I do know roughly how i want my IG army to evolve though, so again i simply need the new codex to plan it out.

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